CTNow & Hartford Courant: January 11, 2014

CTNow2014We don’t have to wait till Sunday to try Walrus and Carpenter’s fried chicken, but it should be treated with reverence. The smokehouse and gastropub, which opened in Black Rock in Bridgeport this summer, makes fried chicken the way you’ve prayed for. A brown-paper-lined aluminum tray bears four plump, crisp, mahogany hunks of chicken. This is eat-it-with-your-hands food. The coating shatters beneath our teeth, tasting of salt, pepper, thyme, a trace of celery salt. The chicken, brined in buttermilk and fresh herbs, is moist and bursting with flavor. A ramekin of sriracha-honey sauce, drizzled over the chicken amps the flavor. We tried the sauce on the flakey, black pepper biscuit, too.

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